Apo Whang Od Tattoo: A thousand-year old tradition of batok continues
Found in the mountains of Kalinga is the remote village of Buscalan, the home of the last traditional mambabatok (tribal tattoo artist) named Apo Whang Od.
Whang-Od Oggay, commonly known as Apo Whang Od, started her career as a tattoo artist to the indigenous Butbut tribe at Buscalan, specifically head hunters and women. Apo Whang Od, at the age of 105, is the last tattoo artist from the tribe.
It was with the warriors of Butbut tribe where the practice of hand-tapped body art began. The process of doing the tattoo involves hitting or tapping of the traditional stick and bamboo, hence calling the artists mambabatok which translates to a person who hits or taps.
Within the tribe, headhunters get a tattoo once they had killed an opponent. Tattoos stood as a symbol of bravery, strength, power, courage, and a sign of dominance. While for women, tattoos are emblems of beauty and elegance. The tribe believed that women are more beautiful as they possess more tattoos.
In the olden days, only men in the tribe could be a tribal tattoo artist. But Apo Whang Od, at an early age of 15, stood against gender norms and began her tattoo apprenticeship with her father’s guidance. Up to the present, she continues the tradition of batok at Buscalan Village where tourists from different parts of the world pay a visit.
The famous signature tattoo of Apo Whang Od is a set of three dots that symbolizes herself, and her apprentices, who are also her grandnieces, namely Grace Palicas and Ilyang Wigan.
If you're up to get a tattoo, here are few things you should know:
Other than Apo Whang Od’s signature tattoo, there are various samples of traditional patterns and designs to choose from. However, due to Apo Whang Od’s old age, she no longer inks large designs.
Apo Whang Od has a tendency to go really hard in tapping. So, you could just pick the easy patterns if you want it done quickly. Muster up a bit of courage, and get ready to hear the drumming of thorn against a stick as your skin throbs with every tap. But, hey! It’s totally worth it. It would only take a week to heal, and you can put coconut oil to help in the healing process. Apart from the embedded ink on your skin that you’ll get to keep for the rest of your life, you can also take home the thorn as a souvenir for your bravery.
Some people in the village have learned the art of hand-tapping tattoo even if they are not directly related to Apo Whang Od. Other tourists resort to get a tattoo from them especially if there's a long line of people to Apo Whang Od. Well, what could we expect? That's Apo Whang Od, the main reason why tourists visit.
These tattoo artists use the same materials and offer almost the same designs as Apo Whang Od. If you’ve got the right amount of grit, you can go for the big and intricate ones! They even do the three-dot signature tattoo of Apo Whang Od. Having tattooed by the others in the village doesn’t make the experience less. You could still roam around the village and find Apo Whang Od for a photo opp.
The other tattoo artists are recommendable for their clean patterns and light touch, but they can’t promise that you won’t say "ouch!" Well, it still depends on your pain tolerance. There’s no numbing cream in the village, so, if it stings, just grab a hand to squeeze.
To keep the tradition of batok in existence is indeed a challenge. Apo Whang Od has no descendant of her own. And tracing back to the tribe's belief, the tradition must continue to bloodlines. For that reason, she is training her grandnieces, who are her closest bloodline, to carry on the tradition.
Grace and Ilyang, the grandnieces, have been practicing the art of hand-tapping for quite some time. Some tourists are afraid of Apo Whang Od's hard tap and some doesn't have the patience to get on the line to Apo Whang Od. But if you really want to get a tattoo, go for Grace or Ilyang.
A Kalinga tattoo is not only an ink’s mark, but it also signifies the preservation of culture. And people from different parts of the Philippines, and even outside the country, travel to Buscalan Village for this one of a kind experience. Well, who wouldn't say no to a chance to imprint a thousand-year tradition in your own skin?
To unearth a treasure would definitely take a lot of effort. And by effort, we meant to hop on a fifteen-hour trip from Manila to Buscalan Village. It’s dreadful, we know. Plus an hour of hike to reach the village! It sure is challenging but it's totally worth it once you set foot on the village. Well, it all boils down to effort.
The culture of Buscalan Village lies within its people ‒their character of being nice, down to earth, and openness to welcome visitors despite the difficult way of living; and let’s not forget the talent in hand-tapped body art. This is the reason why there are tourists who choose to visit and even stay in the village for a day or even a week.
The experience just gets better with a stunning view of rice terraces while welcoming the rush of fresh air against your skin. And to complete the trip, get the best memorabilia you could take ‒a tattoo, or should we say tattoos. For Filipinos, it is a pride and honor to carry; while for foreigners with deep love for the Philippines, it could mean "this country is a big part of me."
Explore more of what the Philippines has to offer by visiting these articles: Siquijor Travel Guide and the Top 6 Mountains in Batangas for beginners
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